I recently finished a restoration on an air conditioning – heater box out of a 1967 Ford Mustang Fastback . The car belongs to the youngest son of J. Bittle owner of JBA Performance Center in San Diego, California. It’s been a long Aggie tradition of the Bittle family to restore, and own a Classic Ford Mustang while attending Texas A&M. Beginning with Jay himself, owning a red 1967 Shelby GT500 Fastback, and his oldest son owning a red 1969 Mach 1. Now, his youngest son is restoring a green 1967 Ford Mustang Fastback Bullitt just in time for college at Texas A&M. The AC box had the typical wear and tear from over 43 years of hot and cold operation. The box had to be very carefully disassembled, and all parts sandblasted. I had to repair several cracks, and re-do some previous repairs. Then all the metal parts were repainted, and the case was clear coated to give it a new stock looking finish. These air conditioning units were operated by cables, a series of vacuum pods, and electric switches, so I tested all the components to see what needed to be replaced. Later, the box was reassembled with both new and original parts, and bench tested to make sure everything worked good. Now, this Classic Mustang will look cool on the outside and stay cool on the inside under the hot Texas sun.
Scott Drake Parts List.
- 1967-68 Heater Seal Kit with Factory Air (Part# C7ZZ-18500-B)
- 1967-73 Heater Core (Part# C9ZZ-18476-B)
- 1967-68 A/C Evaporator (Part# C7ZZ-19860-A)
- 67-68 A/C Expansion Valve (Part# C7ZZ-19849)
- 67-73 A/C Vacuum Switch (Part# C7ZZ-18C311)
- Heater Core to Control Valve Hose (Part# C7ZZ-18472-CVAC)
- Thermostat (Part# C7ZZ-19A671)
All of these parts can be purchased from JBA Performance Center
Hi,
I was wondering what plastic repair product you used on the corner of the plenum box? In image 10. I have similar repairs I need to make and it looks like it worked well.
Thanks!
RH
Austin, TX
I first etch the area an inch larger than the damage. Second, I use Gorilla super glue to quickly bond the crack in place. Third, I use JB Weld (quick drying) over the area. When you sand it down, it is almost the same color as the sand blasted case. When, I clear the case with low gloss clear, it’s hard to see the repair. Works great if you have to use JB Weld on a visible area. I even use it to build up missing areas like the clip grooves.